
We are dedicating this page to neat tips,tricks & product review. If it can save you time,money or make you go faster it will be here.
We Carry a great range of books to help both new & old karters alike.
Looking at buying your first kart? There are a few things to look for to make your entry into the sport enjoyable. #1 Try to buy something as new as your budget will allow. Karts are always being updated and built better. #2 Buy a known brand. Ask your local kart shop if parts are available before you buy. We sell at most race meetings in the area. But we can't keep you on the track, if you bought a 10 year old chassis which is no longer in production. #3 If the brakes aren't working, don't buy it!! If the seller says it only needs a bleed, don't believe him. Early cast alloy brakes corrode inside. A caliper and master cylinder can start at $400. All of a sudden the kart isn't so cheap. #4 Buy a kart that has been raced recently or has been checked by a current racer for you. Rule changes can mean you will be spending more money to get on the track. eg in 2006 the AKA made clubman karts fit new mufflers and conrods in the engine. Make sure the kart is to current specs. #5 Make sure you are allowed to drive it. There are cheap Reed & Rotary valve engines out there....but you need a B Grade license to drive it, AND there is little to no racing class for them. Also there is a new license procedure for Rotax, Leopard & TAG karts. Make sure you are prepared to go racing to upgrade your license, otherwise Clubman may be a better starting point for you.Update..restricted Tag karts are starting to appear around tracks. They seem to be a bit faster in a straight line, compared to Clubmans ( where they have to start behind ). While most of these will move to open class 125 racing, they maybe a good option. The watercooled engines will last longer between rebuilds compared to Yamahas. If you can get some mates together for restricted Tag, all of a sudden you have a field to race against.
New owners of the Yamaha electric start: Before fitting, make sure you have the correct thread for the engine mount clamp. It is a 10mm Metric Fine thread. Do not force a standard mount bolt in. These offset mounts cost approx 4 x times a standard mount.
Moving Hubs : If your hubs are moving in on the axle during a race, there is a simple fix. Drill & Tap a 5mm hole in the hub at the keyway approx 10-15mm in & fit a grubscrew. The grubscrew tightens down onto the axle key.
Product Review: We are now agents for the Rotax DVD " Wrench2Win " It is a great instructional dvd on how to maintain the Rotax Max 125 engine. It is narrated by Canadian Rotax champion Blake Choquer. He takes you through a step by step instruction on disassemble & re-assemble.including: clutch, carby, power valve, crankcase, exhaust & more!! Please note: video does not cover engine rebuilding.You can learn in your own lounge room at your own pace.
Just released is the latest from Blake Choquer. Science of driving.. It is 110 minutes of driving instruction. In Stock now!!

The new Sniper Cat Sprocket Aligner.

The best way to make your kart handle properly is to start with a wheel alignment. If that is wrong no amount of engine power will make a difference. Most kart manufacturers will have a basic setup. Otherwise, contact your local kart shop for a base set-up.Use a quality laser aligner for your wheel alignment. Sniper now make a version for 17 & 25mm stub axles
Ever wondered if your tyres have got too hard or maybe have another race left? We now stock a tyre durometer for the job. Know exactly how hard the rubber is. ( more accurate than the average thumb nail )

This Stub Axle Straightening tool from Powermac is a must in every toolbox. It can be used for repairing bent stub axles and also readjusting when one side is a little out.
Walbro Carby. When kitting the carb, I have been asked which order the gaskets go. I find an easy way to remember is the gasket (thick material) goes to the locating dowels first.On the bottom side ( large plate ) dowels are on cover, so the gasket goes to it, on top/ diaphram side the dowels are on carb body, so gasket sits on body, then diaphram, then cover plate.
Axles : I sell a lot of grub screws, because they have fallen out. If you wrap a cable tie around the bearing, this will retain them.It won't necessarally stop them coming loose. ( I found this out recently ). Hex t-bars don't allow them to be tightened enough as they flex. Product Review : We now stock 3/8" drive, long hex sockets for this purpose.
Accidents: If you are taken out in a race, besides fixing the obvious damage, also check your axle. Loosen & retighten the grub screws. Just a slight movement will wash off a heap of speed when cornering. Also if you think your engine is going off, check the axle & brake rotor first.
Rotax Exhaust :If you put a sticker on the stinger of the exhaust, you can tell what is happening with the baffle. When the sticker starts to melt/burn, it is time to check the matting & baffle. Podium has a neat sticker for this. Drop an e-mail podium1@bigpond.net.au with your postal address or come into the shop for freebe.
Check your tyre pressures regularly with a quality gauge

Never Give Up !!